Cedar Tree Skirt

Project Cost

$20 to $50

Build Time

less than 5 hours

Difficulty

Medium

My wife and I spent some time looking through various tree skirts this year for our new tree, and frankly just couldn’t settle on anything that matched the “modern farmhouse” aesthetic we were looking for. After a bit of searching online, we found tree collars, which brought a sleek rustic charm to our tree! The design includes three separate sides on hinges, design to fold in and lay flat for easy storage. PLANS TO COME!

The entire box is made from 5/8” thick cedar boards, purchased from your local home depot. The first thing I did was measure out the width of front facing board pieces to ensure it fit around the base of the tree.
The entire box is made from 5/8” thick cedar boards, purchased from your local home depot. The first thing I did was measure out the width of front facing board pieces to ensure it fit around the base of the tree.
From there I replicated, these measurements across each side in order to make sure the look was symmetric and sanded each piece down using 80, then 180 grit sandpaper. The base of my tree sat fairly high off the ground, so I decided to make the entire thing three board widths high. Where is sits presently, it actually lifts the base branches of the tree up about 3 inches which I find makes it look nice and full!
From there I replicated, these measurements across each side in order to make sure the look was symmetric and sanded each piece down using 80, then 180 grit sandpaper. The base of my tree sat fairly high off the ground, so I decided to make the entire thing three board widths high. Where is sits presently, it actually lifts the base branches of the tree up about 3 inches which I find makes it look nice and full!
After mapping out all the pieces I needed, I got to cutting. In order to incorporate the lay flat feature, I cut one side into two pieces, one that sat at about 1.5” in length, and the other cut to length to match the opposing side. This would allow me to hinge one side higher than the other so it could fold away flat.
After mapping out all the pieces I needed, I got to cutting. In order to incorporate the lay flat feature, I cut one side into two pieces, one that sat at about 1.5” in length, and the other cut to length to match the opposing side. This would allow me to hinge one side higher than the other so it could fold away flat.
After cutting the backing for the collar, I dug into the frame, cutting the same raw stock wood down the center to create a 2.5” wide cut. I was looking to hide the adjoining corners, so I cut the border a bit longer to overhand by the width of the boards on either side (in this case, 5/8”). Specifically, on the offset side of the assembly, I cut the frame to overlap the 1.5” offset to hit it from the outside.
After cutting the backing for the collar, I dug into the frame, cutting the same raw stock wood down the center to create a 2.5” wide cut. I was looking to hide the adjoining corners, so I cut the border a bit longer to overhand by the width of the boards on either side (in this case, 5/8”). Specifically, on the offset side of the assembly, I cut the frame to overlap the 1.5” offset to hit it from the outside.
Now that all my pieces were cut, it was time to assemble! Since the thickness of the boards was smaller than the depth of my drill bit, I used a piece of tap to mark off my pilot hole depth, and fastened the frame to the backing components using 1” screws. I didn’t Premark the drill holes, Just followed the general rule of fastening an inch in from any edge and roughly to the center of each board where possible.
Now that all my pieces were cut, it was time to assemble! Since the thickness of the boards was smaller than the depth of my drill bit, I used a piece of tap to mark off my pilot hole depth, and fastened the frame to the backing components using 1” screws. I didn’t Premark the drill holes, Just followed the general rule of fastening an inch in from any edge and roughly to the center of each board where possible.
Once all three sides where assembled, I fastened the spacer components of the offset side with small corner brackets
Once all three sides where assembled, I fastened the spacer components of the offset side with small corner brackets
Now time for the hinges. First on long side of the tree skirt. I set the alignment so that the edge of the hinge was inlayed the thickness of the backing boards.
Now time for the hinges. First on long side of the tree skirt. I set the alignment so that the edge of the hinge was inlayed the thickness of the backing boards.
Then finally, the hinge to mount the offset side to the front piece was fastened as seen in the image
Then finally, the hinge to mount the offset side to the front piece was fastened as seen in the image
Now that the hinges were fastened, I got my first look at how it folded flat and I couldn’t have been happier!
Now that the hinges were fastened, I got my first look at how it folded flat and I couldn’t have been happier!
And were done! I decided not to stain or seal the tree skirt as I enjoyed the look of the wood and the cedar itself. I expect will last several seasons given how resilient cedar can be, especially since it will only be used indoors.
And were done! I decided not to stain or seal the tree skirt as I enjoyed the look of the wood and the cedar itself. I expect will last several seasons given how resilient cedar can be, especially since it will only be used indoors.

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